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“I started messing up meat in 1995,” Leonard Guillory told me when I asked about his start as a barbecue entrepreneur. The native of China, Texas, moved about fourteen miles east to Beaumont for high school and loved the locally made beef links. Later, in Houston, he drove trucks for years while saving up to open a barbecue joint of his own. In 2017, Guillory’s Bar-B-Que opened in a food trailer parked in a shopping center in the Alief neighborhood of Houston. Two years ago, Guillory moved across the street into a brick-and-mortar location, with the goal of focusing on the Beaumont-style links from his youth.The food trailer was too cramped for sausage-making, so Guillory had been hauling links from joints like Gerard’s Bar-B-Que, in…
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